FAQ

Carbon Coat

What is the temperature range for applying Carbon Coat? The minimum temperature we recommend is 50 °F. At the lower end of the temperature range, we recommend waiting 90 minutes between layers.

A couple of electric forced air heaters pointed at the surface of the tool will heat up the air around the coating and provide some humidity for the coating to bond. This should be sufficient for a proper bond and cure.

There isn’t really a maximum temperature. However, when it gets warm - 80 °F+ - working times will decrease dramatically, making application more difficult. You will need to work quickly when applying Carbon Coat. You will also need to be more diligent when buffing. Waiting more than 60 seconds before buffing could make buffing difficult, as the coating will be further along in the curing process.

How do I recoat my previously-coated tools? Recoating is simple. Just spray the coated surface with Carbon Cleanse, spread it out, and wipe it off. Allow any leftover moisture to evaporate. Repeat this process to ensure all residual waxes, sprays, or other contaminants are removed. Then apply another 2 to 3 layers of Carbon Coat following the same process as previous coatings.

How often do I need to apply Carbon Glide? Carbon Glide is reapplied as needed. Each tool, cast iron surface, and use operation is different and thus will have different wear characteristics. As you notice friction is increasing, simply spray more Carbon Glide, spread it out evenly, and then wipe it up. Keeping up on Carbon Glide applications will reduce wear on the Carbon Coating and will extend its life significantly.

Can I wash the buffing towels and applicator blocks? No, it is best to not introduce our coatings to your water supply. Throw the pads in the trash. We like to reuse the buffing towels for glue cleanup in the shop.

What surfaces can I apply Carbon Coating to? We have successfully applied Carbon Coating to cast iron, stamped steel, aluminum, brass, stainless steel, phenolic wood, anodized, and powder coated surfaces. If you have another surface you'd like to try Carbon Coating, but aren't sure about, contact us by calling 844-432-2266 or emailing cs@carbonmethod.com.

Nanofinish

Can I apply Ceramic Nanofinish to bare wood? No, nanofinish is best applied to wood that has already been finished.

Will Ceramic Nanofinish work on my finish? Our Nanofinish works over any wood finish, including hardwax oils, oil-based finishes, water-based finishes, rewetting finishes (shellac and lacquer), varnish, spar urethane, etc.

How long should I let my finish cure before applying Ceramic Nanofinish? Whatever your finish is, it should be fully cured to the manufacturer's recommendation before applying Ceramic Nanofinish. In the case of Rubio Monocoat, for example, that would be 7 days if using the 2c hardener.

Will ceramic nanofinish work over epoxy, or epoxy flood coat? Absolutely!

What is the temperature range for application? The minimum temperature we recommend is 50 °F. At the lower temperature end of the temperature range, we recommend waiting 90 minutes between layers.

There isn’t really a maximum temperature. However, when it gets warm - 80 °F+ - working times will decrease dramatically, making application more difficult. You will need to work quickly during application. You will also need to be more diligent when buffing. Waiting more than 60 seconds before buffing could make buffing difficult, as the coating is curing very quickly, leading to an increased chance of high spots.

What do I do if I have high spots after curing? If you notice high spots after an application is cured, you can attach one of our grey abrasive pads to a random orbital sander. Go over the high spots first, then go over the whole piece to even out the scratch pattern, making sure not to go through your finish. You can then recoat, starting with Hard Coat and following the application process again. If that does not fix it, you will have to completely remove the nanofinish, re-apply your chosen wood finish, and start the finishing process again.

Is your Ceramic Nanofinish food safe? While our Nanofinish does not carry any food safe certificates, our Nanofinish works beautifully on wood countertops. However, we do not recommend Nanofinish coatings for cutting boards. The issue is that knives will cut through the coating and could possibly transfer to food. Nanofinish coatings are not safe for human consumption - but you could use them for a charcuterie board as long as there is no cutting on the board.

How do I reapply Ceramic Nanofinish? After some time, our Nanofinish may lose some of its luster. This is from wear and tear. Micro-scratches reflect light differently than the crystal clear Nanofinish coating. Reapplying our Nanofinish is easy. Simply clean the piece with NanoPrep then reapply 2-3 layers of Top Coat.

Can you use Nanofinish outdoors? Yes, our Nanofinish is great on top of an outdoor wood finish. Our Nanofinish will reflect the majority of UV rays and will go a long way to protecting outdoor furniture from the elements, resulting in longer lengths of time between refinishing.

Is a Ceramic Nanofinish containing graphene superior for wood? This is an interesting topic. Our competitors would lead you to believe that Graphene is far superior to an SiO2-type of formulation. The truth is that there is a lot more at play than an oversimplification of "Graphene is Better". We are confident that our coatings will exceed expectations and outperform competitive products when placed side by side.

Does Ceramic Nanofinish yellow over time? Unlike polyurethane or clear epoxy, our Nanofinish does not yellow over time. In fact, our Nanofinish will prevent polyurethane and epoxy from yellowing. Yellowing or ambering is caused by interaction with UV rays, outgassing, and oxidation. Our Nanofinish reflects the majority of UV rays that the wood finish would otherwise absorb. It also provides a moisture and vapor barrier which minimizes oxidation and offgassing.

Can I get protection without gloss? Absolutely! Just use Hard Coat until you reach the desired sheen. Hard Coat is inherently less glossy than Top Coat. You won’t get the full protection of the 2-part system, but it will still provide plenty more protection than just wood finish.